Rolex GMT-Master Gilt 6542
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This is an extremely rare and very early Rolex GMT-Master reference 6542 — the very first GMT model ever produced by Rolex. Officially released to the market in 1955, the reference 6542 was developed in close collaboration with Pan American Airways as a professional tool watch for their international pilots.
Why 1956 matters
This watch comes from the earliest production years of the GMT-Master line. Very few examples from this period survive in collectible condition, making 1956 pieces particularly desirable. They represent the true origins of one of Rolex’s most iconic tool watches.
Dial & Design
The dial of this Rolex 6542 can be presented as a reference for how the earliest GMT-Master dials were executed — clean, balanced, and unmistakably mid-1950s Rolex.
This example features a gilt dial, with the signature glossy black background and gold printing that collectors prize for its depth and elegance.
Over time, the lacquer has developed a fine web of cracks, giving rise to the nickname “spider dial.” This natural aging effect is considered highly attractive and collectible in vintage Rolex circles.
Adding to its rarity, the watch retains its “lollipop” seconds hand, named for the oversized circular tip — a bold design element unique to early Rolex sports models and coveted among collectors.
Historical Notes
The 6542 was the only GMT-Master ever produced without crown guards, giving it a slimmer and more elegant case profile compared to later models.
Originally fitted with a bakelite bezel insert, these were luminous and highly radioactive due to radium, leading to a public health scandal. Rolex replaced these inserts with aluminum, and nearly all original bakelite bezels were destroyed. Surviving watches either have replaced inserts or restored examples.
The model gained fame as the “Pussy Galore GMT,” worn by Honor Blackman in the 1964 James Bond film Goldfinger. This pop-culture connection adds to its legend among collectors.
Powered by the caliber 1036 automatic movement with GMT hand, the 6542 introduced the now-iconic functionality of tracking multiple time zones simultaneously.
Condition
Case & bracelet: Original, professionally restored.
Bezel & date wheel: Aftermarket replacements, in line with the historical reality that most original bakelite bezels were destroyed.
Like all early 6542 models, the watch still emits radiation, though at a level considered safe today.
Collector Significance
The reference 6542 is not just a watch, but a piece of horological history. It marks the beginning of the Rolex GMT-Master line — a model still in production and revered nearly 70 years later. Very few vintage Rolex models combine technical innovation, aviation heritage, pop-culture fame, and extreme rarity in the way the 6542 does. With its gilt spider dial and rare lollipop seconds hand, this example is an especially desirable representation of Rolex’s earliest GMT-Master heritage.
A rare opportunity to acquire this exceptional timepiece.